Japanese Pagoda Tree
Drips
Towards the end of last year, I borrowed the warehouse of an antique shop in Kyoto to work on the completion of one of our products.
Every nook and corner of the spacious warehouse was filled with unassembled pieces of fabric prior to them being sewn into garments. Here, I used a brush to produce different patterns with drops of dye, one drop at a time. Red, blue, yellow, green - all of the dyes were made from raw vegetable matter.
The shape of the patter that forms on the fabric and the way the ink spreads varies greatly depending on the amount of dye contained in the brush, as well as the velocity and angle in which the dye drops onto the fabric. This process cannot be controlled completely. Kelsi and I worked from morning till night for two full days to finish everything, while carefully checking each and every color along with the balance of the patterns that were created.
Please feel free to stop by a shop to see and compare the pieces in person, each with its own unique finish that is impossible to portray with printing. The final product has depth, which helps one to image the process where each and every drop of the dye fell onto the fabric to create this finished product.
Logwood
Sappanwood
Japanese Pagoda Tree
A deciduous tree of the Faboideae Sophora genus, the Japanese pagoda tree is native to China. it grows to heights ranging from 10 - 25m, and its yellowish-green butterfly shaped flowers blossom in a conical shape so as to hang from the branches. Referred to as the komyo ennis in Japanese, this tree's wood was used to make the curved handle of a woodworking adze due to its strong composition.
The flowers and buds contain large amounts of rutin, and when in their dried state, known as the sophora flower, are used in herbal medicine for their hemostatic action. With rutin as the main pigment component, an alkaline aqueous solution is used during mordanting to create a yellow-orange dye.
For this product, it was used for Orange, Yellow, and compounded with logwood for DK. Green.
Lac insect
Lac insect from the scale insect family. Living in tropical and subtropical regions, these insects are mass farmed in India and Southeast Asia. Pigments from within the body of the insect and materials from the shell of the insect are used. The material extracted and purified from the insect shell referred to as shellac. In addition to being dissolved with an organic solvent to be used as paint, such as with lac varnish, shellac can also be used as a coating agent for old SP records, cosmetic raw materials. medicinal tablets, and even chocolate, thanks to the thermoplastic properties exhibited when heated.
Logwood
A deciduous shrub from the Leguminous Caesalpinoidea genus, the logwood tree is native to Mexico and northern Central America. It grows to heights ranging from 3 - 10m, and its yellow flowers blossom in unbranched raceme clusters. Known as akaminoki (Haematoxylum campechianum) in Japanese, the tree is also referred to as 'bloodwood' due to its scientific name of Haematoxylum, meaning 'tree of blood' in Greek.
Traditionally used as a dye by Mayan tribes, the sap continues to be widely used to this day for textile and paper dyeing. With hematoxylin being the main pigment component, the color of the dye changes according to the pH of the combined mordant - red for high acidity and blue for alkalinity. For this product, it was used for Navy and compounded with Japanese pagoda tree for DK. Green.
Sappanwood
A small tree from the Leguminous Caesalpinoidea genus, the Caesalpinia sappan is a flowering tree native to India and the Malay Archipelago. It grows to heights ranging from 2 - 10m, and its yellow flowers blossom in loose panicle clusters. Known as Suo in Japanese, this tree has been long used throughout the ages as a material for Japanese painting and dye for pottery in Japan, as well as for silk and woolen cloth in China.
The main pigment component is brazilin, so the color of the dye changes according to the pH of the combined mordant - red when mordanted with alum, a reddish-purple when using an alkaline aqueous solution such as wood ash, and a deep purple when using iron. For this product, it was used for Red.
Visvim
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