NIKKE is a venerable Japanese textile maker founded in 1896, with whom we worked together with in developing wool fabrics for visvim products. We spoke with the development supervisor of our fabrics, during a visit to their archive room, which houses an extensive collection of textile swatches dating back to 1860.
Melton
It started with an early 1900's hunting jacket found in London; attracted to the strong energy exuded in its highly compressed wool fabric, an idea was inspired to create something with similar charm.
After consulting with fabric makers around the world, we discovered that manufacturing a fabric with such a high-density level is something rarely seen in the industry today. At long last, we met NIKKE, a long established Japanese textile maker, specializing in woolen yarns and fabrics.
They had developed a double woven material for us; repeating the process of shrinking and dry decatizing the fabric in order to rid it of any wrinkles from the shrinkage. A lot of time and effort went into making this extremely dense, velour-like melton. The shrinking and compressing process in particular requires the masterful touch of experienced artisans.
This compressed woolen fabric is both water and cold resistant; a thick, high-performance material that even with the edges left roughly cut, maintains a refined and classic appearance.
Mohair
We developed this mixed wool fabric for the inner layer of our liner jacket, introduced in FW15-16. In order to recreate that textured, dry feel of a worn-in material, varying hues of mohair were specifically blended with an original filament yarn, and finally woven so that the pile heights were all random. The look and feel of this fabrics has a true vintage spirit, and the insulation properties are exceptional.
Survival Cloth
NIKKE has over 100 years of experience manufacturing military uniforms, and in particular a wool serge survival cloth used for the Japanese Army.
We scoured their vast archive for a pattern resembling the envisioned design- no small feat, as the archives contain fabric swatches dating back to the Taisho Period (1912-1926).
It wasn't enough to simply create a durable fabric that could withstand oppressive conditions; the fabric also had to have an aesthetic quality that would work with our new designs.
Utilizing and sharing respective years of accumulated knowledge, we were able to develop a dry fabric with ample body and weight, successful in representing our original concept in mind.
Visvim
댓글 없음:
댓글 쓰기