박노해 알자지라 사진展
3.30.2015
3.29.2015
007 Spectre I
007 Spectre 2015
Sam Mendes, Daniel Craig, Lea Seydoux, Christoph Waltz, Monica Bellucci
정치적 변화
3. 사회의 목소리 큰 사람들이 선험적 진리로 여기는 견해들이 사실은 상대적인 것이고 연구의 대상이 될 수 있다는 사실을 인식할 때 비로소 정치적 의식이 깨어난다. 그런 견해들은 자신만만하게 주창될 수도 있고, 나무나 하늘처럼 존재의 기본 구조에 속한 것처럼 보일 수도 있지만, 사실은 - 어떤 정치적 관점에 따르면 - 특정한 사람들이 특정한 현실적 또는 심리적 이해관계를 옹호하고자 만든 것이다.
이런 상대성을 받아들이기 어렵다면, 그것은 지배적인 믿음들이 자신은 태양의 궤도처럼 인간의 손으로 바꿀 수 없는 것이라고 공들여 주장해왔기 때문이다. 그들은 그저 자명한 것을 이야기할 뿐이라고 주장한다. 카를 마르크스의 유용한 표현을 빌리자면, 그런 믿음들은 이데올로기다. 이데올로기적 진술이란 중립적으로 말하는 척하면서 교묘하게 어떤 편파적인 노선을 밀어붙이는 진술이라고 규정할 수 있다.
마르크스가 보기에 이데올로기적인 믿음을 주로 퍼뜨리는 사람들은 사회의 지배계급들이다. 그래서 지주 계급이 결정권을 쥔 사회에서는 토지에서 나오는 부가 본래 고귀하다는 개념을 주민 다수가 당연하게 받아들인다(심지어 이런 체제에서 손해를 보는 많은 사람들도 그런 개념을 받아들인다). 반면 중상주의 사회에서는 기업가의 성취가 사회 구성원의 성공의 꿈을 지배한다. 마르크스의 표현을 빌리면, "모든 시대의 지배적 관념은 늘 지배계급의 관념이다."
그러나 이런 관념들은 강압적으로 지배하는 것처럼 보이면 결코 지배를 할 수가 없다. 이데올로기적인 진술의 핵심은 높은 수준의 정치적 감각이 없으면 그 편파성을 발견할 수 없다는 것이다. 이데올로기는 무색무취의 가스처럼 사회에 방출된다. 그것은 신문, 광고, 텔레비전 프로그램, 교과서에 자리 잡고 있다. 이곳에서 이데올로기는 자신이 편파적인, 어쩌면 비논리적이고 부당할 수도 있는 방식으로 세상에 접근한다는 사실을 감추면서, 자신은 그저 오래된 진실을 이야기할 뿐이며, 오직 바보나 미치광이만이 여기에 반대할 뿐이라고 주장한다.
4. 그러나 갓 태어난 정치적 정신은 예의와 전통을 벗어버리고, 거리낌 없이 반대의 입장에 서서, 아이처럼 순수하게 그러나 법정에 선 변호사처럼 완강하게 묻는다. "꼭 이래야 하는가?"
억압적 상황은 영원한 고통을 겪으라는 자연의 심판으로 여길 수도 있지만, 정치적으로 해석하면 변화 가능한 어떤 사회 세력들 탓이라고 생각할 수도 있다. 이렇게 되면 죄책감과 수치감은 이해로, 지위의 더 평등한 분배 방식에 대한 탐구로 바뀔 수도 있다.
8. 정치적 관점이 추구하는 것은 무엇보다도 이데올로기에 대한 이해다. 분석을 통하여 이데올로기가 자연스러운 것이 아님을 밝혀 그 뇌관을 제거하는 것이다. 그렇게 해야 어리둥절한 채 우울한 표정으로 대응하던 태도를 버리고, 눈을 똑똑히 뜨고 그 원인과 결과를 계보학적으로 파악할 수 있기 때문이다.
연구를 해보면 지위와 관련된 근대의 이상 역시 자연스럽지도 않고 신이 주신 것처럼 보이지도 않게 된다. 그것은 18세기 후반 영국에서 시작된 산업 생산과 정치 조직의 변화에서 생겨난 것이며, 그 이후 유럽과 북미로 퍼져나갔다. 신문과 텔레비전에 주입되어 있는 물질주의, 기업가 정신, 능력주의에 대한 열망은 체제의 키를 쥐고 있는 사람들의 이해관계를 반영한다("모든 시대의 지배적 관념은 늘 지배계급의 관념이다"). 그리고 다수는 이 체제에 의해 생계를 유지한다.
이렇게 이해한다고 해서 지위와 관련된 이상 때문에 생기는 불편이 기적적으로 사라지지 않는다. 정치적 어려움을 이해하는 것은 기후 위성으로 기상 상태의 위기를 파악하는 것과 같다. 그것이 늘 문제를 막아주지는 못하지만, 적어도 거기에 접근하는 최선의 방법에 대해서는 여러 가지 유용한 것을 가르쳐준다. 그 결과 피해의식, 수동적 태도, 혼란은 현저하게 줄어든다. 욕심을 내보자면, 이해는 사회의 이상들을 바꾸거나 그것과 씨름해보는 첫 단계라고 말할 수도 있다. 이것만으로도 죽마를 신고 다니는 사람들을 아무런 회의 없이 무조건 숭배하고 존경하는 경향이 조금이라도 줄어든 세계를 만드는 데 어느 정도는 도움이 될 것이다.
- 알랭 드 보통, 불안 中
3.23.2015
3.08.2015
3.06.2015
Dissertation On Product Individuality
How are designs that speak to the heart born? How are we able to design products with meaning?
Every season we explore the relationship between production methods, design, and the power found within products. My favorite vintage items that I've collected aren't just pieces of inspiration in and of themselves; continuous investigation of these products while considering the aforementioned relationships has also led to many hints.
I wonder, of all the pieces I've come upon so far, why am I most drawn to the ones that reflect the owner's character?
Why are hand-drawn, hand-embroidered vintage pieces, with all their idiosyncrasies, so attractive? Why are vintage clothes, with their conversational piece-like designs reminiscent of written message collages from the 1930's and 40's, so charming? How is the allure of 1940's American hot rods different from that of cars that came afterwards? How can old, used guitars be so cool?
And so I made a hypothesis as I designed the spring and summer 2015 collection.
The sincere stance of youth, the handiwork that manifests a persons uniqueness, a private and honest and pure message... don't all of these things together bring forth products with extraordinary depth?
We worked with an artisan to draw, not print, sketches that we had made, all done one by one by hand. There is fabric made from a collage of private photos. Embroidered messages to my wife. A hand-painted robe by a Kyo-yuzen artisan. Drawn by hand, and made by hand. A picture of my face, drawn by my wife. A drawing of my wife, done by me. How pure and open can I be with these private moments in my life? Thorough a variety of methods, I believe we were able to concretely express this seasons concept.
Unique products with personality. We tried hard to fill this collection with products made by real human beings. This season was about the expression of our inner youth, which sometimes extended beyond the products in the collection. For instance, in this seasons lookbook I decided to include a picture of my wife and I, something I hadn't done before. It was an attempt to open up a personal side of myself to the public. I wonder what lies ahead as I open up little by little?
This youth that I've been talking about has nothing to do with age; it's a mind thing, the mind set of being free. Being youthful allows me to be in the moment. I watch my daughter, who is 9 years old, and when she is here, she only cares about here. Growing older and being aware of different things has its advantages, but as I look at young people I feel refreshed because I can see that they are here right now. This is true of my daughter and I want it to be true for me as well; although I am 44, I want to strive to live in the moment, not always thinking about my upcoming appointments and obligations. That is the beauty of youth. I designed this collection thinking about these types of things.
Designing the SS15 collection was so much fun. There was a lot of drawing, and mnay late nights with no sleep, but it was great coming together and completing the collection with my team. Our joyful youth, in the end, ultimately reflected the spirit of this collection. To all of my team and the people who were involved, supporters from all over the world, and my wife Kelsi, who designs the collection with me:
"Thank you very much for your support and doing this with me, I am happy with this collection. Arigatou."
Visvim
3.02.2015
Dave Brubeck
Dave Brubeck, designated a "Living
Legend" by the Library of Congress, continues to be one of the most active and
popular musicians in both the jazz and classical worlds. With a career that
spans over six decades, his experiments in odd time signatures, improvised
counterpoint, polyrhythm and polytonality remain hallmarks of innovation.
Throughout his career Brubeck has
continued to experiment with interweaving jazz and classical music. He has performed as composer-performer with
most of the major orchestras in the United States and with prestigious choral
groups and orchestras in Europe and America.
Dave cites as some of the highlights of his career the premier of his
composition "Upon This Rock" for Pope John Paul II's visit to San Francisco and
the performances of his mass "To Hope! A Celebration" in St. Stephan's
Cathedral in Vienna and in Moscow with the Russian National Orchestra and
Orloff choir.
Dave Brubeck's compositions include a
popular Christmas choral pageant "La Fiesta de la Posada", oratorios and
cantatas, ballet suites, a string quartet, chamber ensembles, pieces for solo
and duo-piano, violin solos and orchestral works. His mass "To Hope! A
Celebration" has been performed throughout the English speaking world, Germany,
Russia and Austria and was recorded in the National Cathedral in Washington,
D.C. In 2002 the London Symphony Orchestra and London Voices recorded in "Classical Brubeck" his Easter oratorio "Beloved Son", "Pange Lingua
Variations", "The Voice of the Holy Spirit" and a composition for string
orchestra, "Regret", all under the baton of Russell Gloyd, who since 1976 has
been associated with Brubeck as conductor, producer and manager. A mini-opera
based on Steinbeck's "Cannery Row" was presented at the Monterey Jazz Festival
in 2006.
While increasingly active as a composer,
Brubeck has remained a leading figure in jazz, recording for Telarc, appearing
in festivals and touring internationally in concert halls with today's version
of the Dave Brubeck Quartet - Bobby Militello, sax and flute, Randy Jones,
drums, Michael Moore, bass. As in the Dave Brubeck Quartet decades ago, each is
a master musician and their concert repertoire ranges from "hits" from the old
Quartet "book" to cutting edge new material.
Throughout his long career Dave Brubeck
has received national and international honors, including the National Medal of
the Arts from President Clinton, a Lifetime Achievement Award from the National
Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences, the Smithsonian Medal, and a star on
the Hollywood Walk of Fame. He holds numerous honorary doctorates from
American, Canadian, English and German universities, including an honorary
degree in Sacred Theology from Fribourg University, Switzerland. Recently,
Brubeck received the Distinguished Arts Award from the Ford Honors program of
the University of Michigan and in 2006 received from Notre Dame their highest
honor, the Laetare Medal. He is a Duke
Ellington Fellow at Yale University, and was presented with the Sanford Medal
by the Yale School of Music
In the year 2000 the National Endowment
for the Arts declared Dave Brubeck a Jazz Master. He was inducted into the American Classical
Music Hall of Fame in 2003. In 2007 he received a Living Legacy Jazz Award from
Kennedy Center and the Arison Award from the National Foundation for the Advancement
of the Arts.
His international honors include Austria’s
highest award for the Arts, a citation from the French government, and the
Bocconi Medal from Italy. The London Symphony Orchestra, acknowledging their
long association, presented him with their prestigious Lifetime Achievement
Award in 2007.
The most recent honor from his alma
mater, the University of the Pacific, is the President's Medal of Achievement
presented by Donald V. De Rosa. Dave
Brubeck serves as chairman of The Brubeck Institute that the University of the
Pacific established in his honor.
3.01.2015
Product Introspection: Social Sculpture Denim II
It's still difficult to put my finger on what attracts me to denim. More than any other fabric, perhaps, denim is just as much about a feeling as it is about objective metrics like fabric weight or tensile strength. Maybe it's because the fabric has meaning. I've always been into utility wear - workwear, military, etc. - because it is designed with a purpose, and is more than just clothing designed for a certain "look".
When I decided to develop my own denim, I knew that it had to have meaning. I am not trying to make 30's-40's workwear reproduction denim. If I tried to imitate those pieces I would never be able to be authentic with myself, because the intangible element that makes those jeans so special is the original intention behind them. This wouldn't be authentic to me, as a creator. For me, authentic means comfortable, durable, and masculine. Of course, vintage denim is part of my personal story, and you'll see that inspiration in our Social Sculpture denim series as well, but all of this was filtered through the lens of our generation to create a modern fit suitable for everyday wear. I loved the way my vintage jeans faded after months of wear, and I designed out Social Sculpture denim with this in mind. Looking at the fading on my vintage jeans, however, I soon realized that this vision could only be achieved by rethinking what is possible with yarn. A recurring theme for our company is creating from the yarn up, and we have done this with our denim as well. We developed a yarn from scratch by intentionally mixing yarns with different slub lengths, so that the resulting fabric displays both visual and tactile unevenness that becomes more pronounced over time.
We use a process called rope-dyeing for our denim, where the yarns are twisted and dipped repeatedly in a bath of indigo. The result is a yarn that has a deep blue outer shell and a pure white core, untouched by the dye. It is much easier to throw a bundle of yarn into a vat of indigo and pull it out when everything turns blue, but the resulting yarn will be too soaked through with dye and will not fade will. Rope-dyeing is time consuming and not conductive for mass production, but when the denim is worn it will exhibit beautiful fading.
Like I said, I did not want to simply make reproduction denim. As important as it was for me to learn from vintage denim, it was just as important for the jeans I made to fit a modern lifestyle and wardrobe. This is why our unwashed denim is coated to prevent shrinking, even though not coating it would have been closer to vintage American denim. All of our silhouettes are updated from their vintage forebears and are designed to be worn with modern clothes, with enough variations for most body types and dressing styles.
It is important to always have a concept. Having a concept and designing a product, versus merely trying to mimic a look will yield vastly different outputs. Everything about our denim is designed exclusively for us: the color, the yarn, the custom rivets, the two-toned stitches, the natural indigo dyed deer skin patch...everything is deliberate, and embodies our "meaning".
When I design, I project myself onto the product and use myself as a reference for my clients. The denim that we produce right now is absolutely the only denim I ever want to wear. It's a manifestation of me staying authentic to my original vision, and also staying true to the needs of my customers.
Denim follows your life, it shows your life, it shows your character, and as you wear it more, the more you come to like it. The denim that you come in and pick up from one of our stores...that is just the starting point.
Visvim
The Talks IV
Morgan Freeman: "Strive for pleasure and peace"
Mr. Freeman, aren't you tired of working all the time?
I'm not digging tunnels, I'm not building buildings. My work is not hard, my work is refreshing, my work is pleasant. The more the better. Lying around and getting no job is debilitating.
It's been a long time since you were unemployed... Do you even remember the last time you were looking for work?
I had a lot of bad jobs, but I think the worst was working at a food place. Just before that I had been working in an office as a clerk. I wanted more money but they refused. Then I auditioned for a show as a dancer, I got the job, and I quit my office job immediately. The bad thing was that my dancing job only lasted for three months and then the show shut down. So I found this job working in this little place handing out coffee and donuts.
That doesn't sound so bad...
Well, on night one of the guys I was working with in the show came in. I tried to hide under the counter, but he saw me and asked me what I was doing there. After I admitted that I was an unemployed actor at the moment, he told me that he was on his way to his new show. That moment was terrible for me.
Would you say you've lived more happy days in your life or more unhappy?
More happy days. I started working when I was thirty and I am still working, so that's more happy days.
What was the best thing that somebody ever did to you?
I think the best thing somebody ever did to me was my mother opening her legs and squirting me out.
And the worst?
The worst thing hasn't really happened yet.
That seems pretty positive.
I'm making a great effort because sometimes life is not enjoyable. Sometimes it's painful and sometimes it's stressful, sometimes it's agonizing even, so I think once you get around those humps: strive for pleasure and peace.
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